Shadow Lake is one of the most beautiful destinations in backcountry Banff National Park, and it is easily reached year round via the Redearth Creek Trail. The trail can be hiked, biked, or skied as a long day trip (14 km one way,) but I recommend splurging on an overnight stay at the decadent Shadow Lake Lodge.
A few weeks ago, I was given an incredible opportunity to spend two nights at the backcountry Shadow Lake Lodge in Banff with my family, and we were able to time our trip to see the golden larch trees above the lodge.Backcountry Shadow Lake Lodge in Banff National Park |
As a family we got to experience the luxury of going backpacking in the Canadian Rockies without a tent or sleeping bag, and we carried nothing other than our regular day hiking gear, lunch for the first day, and basic overnight items.
Waiting for us was our own private cabin at the lodge, gourmet home cooked meals, hot water + showers, and comfortable beds to sleep in!
Note, there have been operational changes starting in winter 2024-25. All stays are now self-catered. Read more below.
Frosted larch trees on our hike in to Shadow Lake Lodge |
Introduction to Shadow Lake Lodge
Shadow Lake Lodge was first established as a backcountry rest house by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1930. Ownership was then transferred to the Brewster family of Banff in 1938 who ran the property as a backcountry lodge until just recently when the lodge was sold to the Alpine Club of Canada in 2019. (Read more about the history of the lodge here.)
The Alpine Club of Canada maintains a large collection of backcountry huts, cabins, and shelters across Southern Alberta and BC, but Shadow Lake is their first luxury property offering private cabins rather than a shared cabin where you all sleep together slumber party style in the same room.
The lodge is situated in a beautiful meadow half a kilometre from Shadow Lake (easily visited in the evening after dinner or the next morning after breakfast.)
Shadow Lake is a short walk from the lodge, and perfect for those sunset and sunrise photos |
NEW Exciting Operational Changes as of Winter 2024-2025
The following is from the Alpine Club of Canada.
"Looking ahead to 2025, we’re excited to share some significant changes to our operational model. Going forward, we will be providing accommodation with fewer services and a corresponding reduced price. These changes will make the lodge and this breathtaking backcountry area of Banff National Park more accessible to all of our guests and ACC members."
Here is what you can expect from a stay at Shadow Lake Lodge:
- A self-catered kitchen shared by all of our guests. Guests will bring and prepare their own food. There will be a propane fridge + oven available for guests to use as well in the kitchen.
- Private, heated cabins with the same excellent facilities, but without linens. Guests will bring their own sleeping bags.
- Cabins will remain private (not shared with other guests or groups) and will accommodate between two and five guests each.
- Continued access to the communal washhouse, lounge, and dining areas for your enjoyment. Bring your own towels.
- A full-time custodian who will host our guests.
- Wine, beer, and SLL merchandise available for purchase.
Gourmet meals used to be included at the lodge |
A Backcountry Lodge with Private Cabins, Showers, and Hot Water
Nothing says decadence in the backcountry like hot water and sleeping in a real bed off the ground! Take a hot shower when you arrive and enjoy a comfortable sleep in your own private cabin with two double or queen sized beds per cabin. - Bring sleeping bags.
There are no bathrooms in the cabins, but the shower cabin is a short walk away where you'll find toilets, sinks with hot running water, and then of course the showers. Bring your own towel.
Other than the private cabins, there are two shared cabins, one for meals, and one with a fireplace for common gathering in the evenings. The gathering cabin was a cozy place for us on our recent stay where we could curl up by the fire to read in the afternoon or play games in the evening after dinner. And don't worry about bringing games because the lodge has many to choose from.
Our cozy private cabin at Shadow Lake |
The common gathering cabin was a warm welcoming place to read or play games |
Overnight Stays at Shadow Lake Lodge
The lodge used to require two night stays from their guests. This has changed to nightly stays permitted for the 2024-25 winter season and all stays going forward. There is no more two-night minimum.
All stays are priced per cabin so if you see $350 on the website, that is the cabin price for 2-5 people.
For information on rates at the lodge, visit the Shadow Lake website. And I encourage you to sign up for their newsletter where they promote their specials.
Photo below shows a queen cabin when blankets and linens were provided. Now you must bring your own sleeping bags.
Pillows will be available as long as guests bring their own pillow case. (You will not receive a pillow if you don't bring a case.)
Each cabin has two queen or double beds |
The Fall Advantage to Backcountry Stays at Shadow Lake Lodge
Hiking through golden larch trees at Gibbon Pass, no crowds! |
Gibbon Pass above Shadow Lake Lodge |
Tent or cabin? Not a difficult decision late September |
Late September at Shadow Lake Lodge and we were happy we weren't camping! |
Access to Shadow Lake via Redearth Creek (hiking, biking or skiing)
The easiest access for the lodge is via the Redearth Creek Trail which is basically an old gravel/dirt road. The trail is used by mountain bikers, cross country skiers, and hikers looking to access Shadow Lake and the Bow Valley Highline Trail which runs all the way from Sunshine Village in Banff to Vista Lake on the Banff border with Kootenay National Park.
Redearth Creek isn't the most interesting trail in the Rockies but it provides the shortest and easiest way to get to Shadow Lake. You hike the old road for 11km to the junction with Pharaoh Creek and then continue for a final 3km on a narrower trail to the lodge.
The Redearth Creek Trail is the easiest way to access Shadow Lake Lodge |
The first 11 kilometres can be biked, but you must lock your bike up at the junction before the final climb to the lodge. (There are bike racks at the junction.) The next 3 kilometres starts with a steep hill for about 15 minutes and then the trail flattens out again for easier hiking. (Skiers usually walk the hill.)
Overall, the trail gains less than 500 metres of height, spread out over the 14 km. It's an easy mountain bike ride and an intermediate trail for cross-country skiing. As a hike, it's very easy compared to the other trails that access Shadow Lake, and the elevation gain is always very gradual (other than the one hill at the junction.)
Allow for 4 to 5 hours to reach the lodge if hiking.
In the winter, this is one of my favourite cross-country ski trails.
I highly recommend skiing this trail in winter |
Access to Shadow Lake via Arnica Lake and Gibbon Pass (Summer / Fall Hiking)
Map courtesy of Shadow Lake Lodge |
Hiking to Shadow Lake via Arnica Lake
looking down on Vista Lake from the trailhead off Highway 93 |
Vista Lake is a stunning emerald green color |
Looking WAY down on Vista Lake from the trail to Arnica Lake |
Arnica Lake was gorgeous on our visit with frosted larch trees and snowy mountains |
Arnica Lake is a popular day hike for golden larch viewing. On our visit, it had recently snowed and the views of the frosty trees reflected in the still water was stunning.
Hiking from Arnica Lake to the Twin Lakes
Looking down on Arnica Lake from the high point en route to the Twin Lakes |
Arnica "Summit" at the high point before dropping down to the Twin Lakes |
The Upper Twin Lake is a beautiful spot for a lunch break |
Hiking from the Twin Lakes to Gibbon Pass
Hiking through golden larch trees on the climb to Gibbon Pass |
Gibbon Pass with the summit of "Little Copper" above, a popular day hike from the lodge |
Hiking from Gibbon Pass down to Shadow Lake Lodge
Gibbon Pass is one of my fav. places to visit in late September |
The Twin Lakes were a snowy winter wonderland on our hike |
Gibbon Pass with hundreds of golden larch trees |
Exploring Shadow Lake from the Lodge
When you arrive at the lodge, staff will give you suggestions for day hikes from the lodge while staying there. The easiest choice, and the one we enjoyed on our middle day, is simply heading to the nearby lake and then walking further to the back of the lake as far as you want to go.
You can see a map and read about the hike on the All Trails site here: Shadow Lake and the Cirque above the lake
Shadow Lake is beautiful year round and a short hike from the lodge |
If you download the hike on your phone using the All Trails app, you'll find the unmarked side trail leading to a set of Parks Canada red chairs located on a peninsula half way along the lake. If you somehow miss finding the trail, as we did, watch for it on your way back from the end of the lake. You'll see the chairs as you hike back towards the lodge and then you'll know to watch for the next side trail. - This worked for us because we missed the trail on our way out.
Next time I visit this lake, it'll be frozen and snow covered |
This hike would be 8-10 km return depending on how far past the lake into the cirque you climb. We were heading towards the cirque where I understand there are waterfalls, but it was cold, wet, and overcast on our middle day, and the warm fireplace was calling my name.
It took me three separate visits to finally find these red chairs this year! |
Day Hiking to Gibbon Pass (with Little Copper summit extension)
Photos earlier in this story show what you can usually expect to see at Gibbon Pass in autumn. Meanwhile, the photos below show what we experienced on our hike out from the lodge Sunday after we had snow two nights in a row.
Gibbon Pass was very snowy for our hike out from the lodge |
From Gibbon Pass you can also continue on to the Twin Lakes, again if you didn't hike in this way, or even further to the high point above Arnica Lake.
See the full route on All Trails covering the Vista Lake - Arnica Lake - Twin Lakes - Gibbon Pass hike. Hike as far as you want from the lodge and return the same way.
A snowy hike through Gibbon Pass |
Gibbon Pass late September |
We hiked in over Gibbon Pass with lovely fall weather (as seen from my previous photos in this story.) Our hike out though was a snowy adventure and it felt like we'd stayed at the lodge for a month, advancing a full season.
From the pass, it's only another 300-400 metres of height gain to reach the summit of Little Copper where you'll find incredible views over the entire Bow Valley as well as views down to Shadow Lake.
Looking up at the summit of Little Copper from Gibbon Pass |
It was a snowy climb for us to reach the summit of Little Copper! |
I honestly recommend every visitor to the lodge try to make their way to this beautiful summit where you'll get the best views from any of the day trips nearby.
We hiked to the summit on our way out, so it made for a longer but very worthwhile day. And I'm pretty sure there's "usually" a trail to the top of Little Copper. We had too much snow when we were there, and had to create our own route (mostly hiking straight up through the larch trees, and then straight up the snow covered rock near the top.)
Looking down on Shadow Lake from the slopes of Little Copper |
From the lodge, Gibbon Pass and Little Copper would be a nice 3-4 hour day hike and you'd be back in plenty of time for afternoon tea.
See the map and read about the hike on the All Trails website here: Little Copper Mountain via Gibbon Pass .
Summit of Little Copper looking over Castle Mountain and the Bow Valley |
Little Copper summit ridge with shadow Lake below |
Plan Your Trip to Shadow Lake Lodge
This was my fav. ski trip last winter! I can't wait to repeat it this coming season |